How to Sand Inside the Home
Before you apply finish to indoor walls, they should be free of rough patches. While some spots may need to be filled, sanding will be a key component of this process.
Indoor Sanding Pointers
Get rid of raised areas where paint has cracked, or where you’ve had to fix it in the past. Little by little, make these places as even as possible.
Rub sandpaper on glossy finish to create traction for the new paint. Work on bigger sections of a wall with a random orbital or disc sander. Afterwards, go over it again with sandpaper, following the grain of the wood. If you hold the paper at an angle, you won’t mark the wall with a series of lines (based on the paper’s edges).
Clean is king in sanding. Use a rag to take any remaining dirt off the walls you’re working on. Last but not least, use a vacuum to remove any particles that remain when the sanding is done.
When dealing with finished wood trim, you’ll need to do a little extra work. Sandpaper (60 to 80 grit) or an equivalently abrasive sponge can take off brush marks. To eliminate evidence of the sanding process itself, use 120-grit sandpaper (or a comparable sponge).
New wood’s delicacy demands sandpaper ranging from 120 to 150 grit. If the grain is elevated, make sure to sand it down. The same goes for glossy portions of the wood, which were glazed at the factory. Primer won’t stick to them, and they prevent the equal distribution of stain on the wood.
How to Sand Drywall
If you’re working on small areas, wet sanding (using cloths or sponges) may be best. New drywall, like new wood, requires TLC. A big sander designed for use with drywall is less likely to puncture or rip the material (particularly near the joints) than other methods. Another useful tool, sanding mesh, is also compatible with plaster or drywall. Mesh is quite durable; better yet, plaster particles can pass through it. This makes it cost efficient, since you don’t have to throw it out after a single use. It’s cheap at most stores, and it can be used on dry or damp surfaces.